Pentax PZ-1p Camera<\/h1>\n<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n\n\nOverview<\/a>
\nFeatures<\/a>
\nOperation<\/a>
\nPros and Cons<\/a>
\nConclusion<\/a><\/p>\nOverview<\/h2>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.blackestknight.com\/photography\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/pz1p-1024x1024.jpg\")
PZ 1P or Z1-P<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nThis camera is discontinued, but probably still can be found in some shops or as a second hand. The Pentax PZ-1p is a good alternative for those wishing a high featured camera without spending a lot of money. One of Pentax’s high-end autofocus 35mm SLR, the PZ-1p has all of the required features demanded by professional photographers. It is capable of a shutter speed of 1\/8000 sec with 1\/250 sec flash sync. The motor allows up to 4 frames per second for continuous shooting. Now this camera is replaced by new Pentax MZ-S.<\/p>\n
Features<\/h2>\n
\n\n\nCamera Type:<\/b><\/td>\n TTL auto focus, auto exposure multi-mode 35mm SLR with built-in Retractable TTL Auto Flash (RTF).<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nFocusing system:<\/b><\/td>\n Type: TTL phase-matching system (with SAFOX II in AF sensor unit).
\nUsable illumination range: EV-1 ~ EV18 (at ISO 100\/m with 50mm f\/1.4 lens).Modes:(1) AF-Single (with focus-lock function)(2) AF-Servo (with Predictive AF mode)(3) manual focus (selectable with switch on camera body)AF spotbeam (with RTF in pop-up position):automatic emission under low illumination (1m ~ 6m).<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nLens Mount:<\/b><\/td>\n Pentax KAF2 bayonet mount. Compatible with KAF, KA and K mounts.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nUsable lenses:<\/b><\/td>\n Pentax KAF2, KAF, KA a K bayonet mount lenses. With M42 adaptor can be mounted all M42 lenses (for example those from Praktica). Even, I have bought Pentacon Six Lens to Pentax Bayonet K adaptor to use my great Carl Zeiss Jena Sonar 300\/f4 lens.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nViewfinder:<\/b><\/td>\n Pentaprism
\nInterchangeable Natural-Bright-Matte focusing screen (panorama*-spot-matte type as standard)Magnification: 0.8X (with 50mm f\/1.4 lens at infinity)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nViewfinder coverage<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n covers 92% of real picture vertical \/ horizontal<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nViewfinder magnification:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n 0.8X (with 50mm f\/1.4 lens at infinity).<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nViewfinder Info:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n Multi-data LCD type with illuminator
\n1) in-focus 2) shutter speed 3) aperture 4) accessory flash emission 5) RTF emission 6) flash emission compensation 7) low-illumination warning 8) non-applicable lens warning 9) exposure compensation scale 10) exposure compensation 11) memory lock 12) metering system (multi-pattern, spot, center-weighted) 13) panorama mode <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nExternal LCD Panel Indication: <\/b><\/b><\/td>\n multi-data LCD type with EL (Electro-Luminescence) illuminator.
\n1) exposure mode (Hyper Program, Programmed AE, Aperture-Priority AE, Shutter-Priority AE, Hyper Manual and Manual Bulb2) film loading, film advance\/rewind and loading error warning3) Image-Size Tracking4) Zoom Clip5) Zoom Effect6) shutter speed7) aperture8) ISO film speed9) exposure compensation10) exposure compensation value11) exposure frame number12) low-battery warning13) RTF recharge14) low-illumination warning15) non-applicable lens warning16) metering mode (multi-segment, spot, center-weighted)17) Pentax Functions18) self-timer19) multiple exposure20) trailing-shutter-curtain sync21) pre-flash emission (red-eye reduction)22) flash emission compensation23) auto-bracketing<\/p>\n24) TV direct dial<\/p>\n
25) AV direct dial<\/p>\n
26) motor drive mode<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\nShutter:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n Electronically controlled vertical-run focal-plane shutter<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nFilm Transport:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n Quick loading mechanism with automatic film advance to first frame
\nAdvance\/rewind: automatic. (Mid-roll rewind possible.)Advance modes: single-frame and consecutive (approx. 4 frames\/sec.)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nExposure modes:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n (1) Hyper Program
\n(2) Programmed AE(3) Aperture-Priority AE(4) Shutter-Priority AE(5) Hyper Manual(6) Manual Bulb(7) TTL Program Auto Flash, Automatic exposure compensation provided with multi-pattern metering<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nExposure compensation:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n +4EV. (1\/3EV or 1\/2EV increment selectable with Pentax Function.)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nMetering system:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n (1) TTL open-aperture eight-segment multi-pattern metering (coupled with lens and AF information)
\n(2) spot metering(3) center-weighted metering<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nMetering work range:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n EV0 ~ EV20 (at ISO 100\/m with 50mm f\/1.4 lens)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nShutter speeds:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n (1) auto: 1\/8000 sec. ~ 30 sec. stepless
\n(2) manual: 1\/8000 sec. ~ 30 sec. plus bulb(3) flash sync: 1\/250 sec. (slow-shutter-speed sync: 250 sec. ~ 30 sec. plus bulb)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nAuto bracketing: <\/b><\/b><\/td>\n 3 frames in order of proper\/under\/ over exposures within range of +4EV (1\/3EV or 1\/2EV increment selectable)
\nCombination use with exposure compensation possible.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nMultiple Exposure:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n 2~9 frames adjustable<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nMirror Lockup:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n Yes -automatic with 2seconds shutter timer<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nBuilt-in Retractable TTL Flash:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n Guide number: 14 (at ISO 100\/m)
\nAngle of coverage: 28mm wide-angle lens maximum Synchronization: with RTF via hotshoe Features:(1) Emission adjustable in daylight sync and slow-shutter-speed sync (2) flash bracketing(3) flash emission compensation{4) trailing-shutter-curtain sync(5) pre-flash emission (red-eye reduction)(6) AF spotbeam projector built in<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nMinimal Flash Synchronization:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n Sync speeds: 1\/250 sec. set automatically with RTF or dedicated flash unit upon recharge completion<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nDepth Of Field preview:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n yes<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nCustom Functions:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n 15 custom-programmable functions<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nMotorspeed:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n approximately 4fps<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nSettings ISO of Films:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n Automatic with DX-coded film (ISO25 ~ ISO1000)
\nManual setting available (ISO6 ~ ISO6400 in 1\/3EV steps)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nSelf timer:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n Electronically controlled type with 2-second with Mirror Lockup<\/b> or 12-second delay
\nCancellation possible<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n\nRemote control:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n Electric Cable Switch F, easy to build yourself, please read my article<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nBattery:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n One 6V lithium battery (2CR5 type)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nWeight:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n 650g (22.9 oz.) without lens and battery<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nDimensions:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n 152.0mm(W) x 95.5mm(H) x 74.0mm(D) (6.0″ x 3.8″ x 2.9″)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n <\/p>\n
Operation<\/h2>\n
As with others in its class, the camera comes with standard aperture and shutter priority. The PZ-1p uses a basic, but adequate eight segment multi-pattern metering system which handled most of our shooting situations with flying colors, comparable in performance to autofocus 35mm SLRs priced at over $1500. The metering system is perfect and never fails, even under difficult lightning conditions. <\/p>\n
Key functions are programmable and the camera can be taught to know your shooting habits in different situations. Customizing the camera functions was the easiest of any autofocus 35mm SLR. <\/p>\n
The powerful built-in flash can also be set to fire at varying strengths to get the correct exposure. Doing so, in fact, led to three images with quite different feels, all of which were “usable”. For serious photographers, we recommend a dedicated flash unit, such as the Pentax AF500FTZ. For basic sports photography, the predictive autofocus was as good as any found on $1500 cameras. Predictive autofocus kicks in automatically in AF Servo mode when it detects the subject moving. <\/p>\n
The PZ-1p has its dials placed in comfortable positions, and reachable by different sized hands. The body has a “futuristic” look to it, with buttons and dials located discreetly, but within easy reach. Pentax does not have the range of lenses of some other companies, but Pentax’s lenses are top notch and comes in focal lengths for every picture taking situation. <\/p>\n
I have been using SLR’s from different manufactors for around 10 years and know the technical side of photography inside-out, but I had to spend an hour with the manual to get the hang of this camera. The whole point is that when making pictures you just keep looking through the viewfinder and adjust f-stop and shutter speed with two dials, while the finder shows you the information you need. You very seldom have to remove the eye from the finder for the purpose of adjusting something when shooting. <\/p>\n
This SLR has an unusual user interface<\/b> <\/p>\n
The Z-1p has something called “hyper-manual” and “hyper program”<\/b>. In both modes you adjust shutter speed with one dial and f-stops with another. The finder shows the selected values in “hyper manual” also an over\/under exposure scale in 1\/3 stops. A small button picks a shutter\/f-stop combination that satisfies the meter reading, this is really nice when something unexpected happens. <\/p>\n
<\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.blackestknight.com\/photography\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/ZPXPZ1P1.jpg\")
PZ1P Top View<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n <\/p>\n
\u00b4 In hyper program you adjust the same way but when you adjust f-stop the camera adjusts shutter speed just like traditional aperture priority, when you adjust shutter speed the camera adjusts f-stop like in shutter priority, when the light changes the camera adjusts one or both values to adapt just like a traditional program mode. <\/p>\n
These two modes are the only ones beside “B” that I have been using. There’s traditional aperture priority, shutter priority and program modes, but the two hyper modes are so much more convenient. No more need to switch between aperture, shutter priority, manual and program mode in the middle of shooting. <\/p>\n
When shooting landscapes and the like with the camera mounted on a tripod you suddenly figures out why Pentax choose to put a large lcd on top of the prism house. It holds information such as f-stop, shutter speed, amount of over\/under exposure with the current setting shown in 1\/3 f-stops, metering mode, indicators for bracketing, exposure compensating, mirror lock-up, spot\/center\/matrix and a handful of other indicators however it’s big enough to be useful from up to a meter away. <\/p>\n
Pros and Cons<\/h2>\n
Pros<\/b><\/p>\n
This camera comes with shutter speeds from 30s-1\/8000s, synchs up to 1\/250s, can do fill flash magic automatically, and has auto bracketing settable in 1\/3 or 1\/2 steps. Bracketing also works with flash and fill flash. <\/p>\n
Camera has unusual Hyper Modes with dual dial knobs – one for aperture, second for shutter time. <\/p>\n
There’s mirror lockup, when the camera flips up the mirror, stops down the lens and then wait 2 seconds before making the exposure. The focusing screen can be changed by the user. <\/p>\n
There’s a built in flash with a guidenumber of 14 that spreads enough for a 28 mm lens. An on camera flash isn’t of course the most usefull thing around, but it can save the day when caught without a real flash, and it can of course be used to sync off camera flashes with slaves. The Pentax 500 FTZ flash has a built in slave, so this is a very usefull feature. <\/p>\n
What would improve this camera<\/b> <\/p>\n
I miss being able to set longer exposures than 30 s. without resorting to B-mode and cable remote. It would be trivial from a programmer\/ee point of view to let the uset dial in arbitrarily long exposure times by turning one of the dials and seing the exposure time shown in the finder or the display. But I think more like 30s long exposure time is very rare, I think it can be found only in medium format cameras. <\/p>\n
Pentax would not hear any complaints from me if they forgot about the patetic panorama function. It’s just two pieces of metal that blocks light to the top and bottom of the film during exposure. <\/p>\n
An optional method for keeping the battery in a shirt pocket when shooting in cold weather would be nice. It was available on the earlier top of the line models, but has been dropped for the Z-1p? models. An option that let’s one use standard AA batteries instead of the photo specific 2CR5 lithium battery, could save the day in less industrialized countries when the bag with the spare batteries get’s stolen and you have to resupply locally. <\/p>\n
An updated AF with more focus spots etc. would be nice. But, as I must say, the system with selectable points of focus is not very usable – like those in Nikon F80 or Canon EOS 300, because usually you haven\u00b4t got the time to choose the right focus point, because you must watch composition and zoom. No time is left for this. (this knowledge comes from my practice) Other think is when focusing points are selected automatically by camera itself. <\/p>\n
Conclusion<\/h2>\n
For those needing a professional 35mm SLR camera, but lacking a professional budget, the Pentax PZ-1p is a fine choice. When I was buying it, it was camera with the best features\/price ratio. I\u00b4m using this camera for several years, now using mostly velvia slide film and I\u00b4m totally satisfied. I would not change it! You can see my pictures, which proves qualities of this camera.<\/p>\n
I think that the Pentax SMC, Super Multi-Coated lenses are excellent. It is amazing how badly you have to do to have lens flare show up. The optical quality of Pentax lenses is also excellent. You can also use other brans making lenses for Pentax. My favourite is Tokina, especially new Tokina 28-70\/f2.8 for very good price and with perfect optical\/build quality. <\/p>\n
PZ-1p versus MZ-S<\/b> <\/p>\n
New MZ-S is almost twice as expensive as the PZ-1p. Ironically, the different functionality of the MZ-S makes me appreciate more than ever the ease of use and functionality of the PZ-1p. The hyper modes of the PZ-1p are simply beautiful to work with, and they are not set-up quite the same on the MZ-S. The two cameras have almost identical functionality, but the MZ-S has gone a step backwards in requiring aperture priority changes to be made with the aperture ring only, whereas on the PZ-1p such changes can be made by thumbwheel or, of course, by the aperture ring. Two-second mirror lock-up is much faster to set on the PZ-1p, as are all of the other Pentax Functions, owing to the fact that on the PZ-1p you depress a button and rotate a wheel through the functions, while on the MZ-S you must rotate a wheel through the exposure bracketing area and two separate click stops to get to the same function-ready-to-set start point. This was not an improvement over the PZ-1p, by any means. The MZ-S does not have 3-frame timer release, which I find very useful. Any time I want to be in the frame and use the timer on a tripod, I’m usually with a group of people. Three frames at once lets me get a print for myself and two others for the people with me, without having to go back to the tripod twice. The MZ-S is lighter and feels more solid in-hand. The shutter on the MZ-S is much quieter, and I suspect has far less vibration than the shutter on a PZ-1p. For build quality, the MZ-S cannot be faulted in any way. <\/p>\n
It can be faulted for the 2.5 frames per second motor drive versus the PZ-1P’s 4.5 fps. It’s probably an issue related to the size of the motor in the smaller MZ-s body, but 4.5 fps is far more useful if you really need a timed sequence of something. <\/p>\n
For those of you with Power Zoom lenses, you probably already know that the MZ-S does not incorporate full power zoom functionality. Most notably, the automatic lens-retract-to-shortest-size feature retracts the zoom extension to shortest length, BUT it does NOT simultaneously autofocus to infinity, which would shorten the lens even more. The PZ-1p does both. This “shortening of the lens” function helps stuff the camera back in the bag more quickly. This might seem inconsequential, but once I had the feature, I came to like it. With the newer Pentax zooms, especially those with internal focus, it’s not an issue. <\/p>\n
The FGZ360 flash that came out for the MZ-S is a VERY nice unit, and the MZ-S has extremely good interface with it. It give brilliant results, utilizing a pre-flash feature that effectively custom-sets the actual TTL flash output. The MZ-S body leaves the older FTZ 500 and 330 flashes for the PZ-1p out in the cold in terms of flash exposure compensation (the function is in the FGZ360 flash, not in the body), but the FGZ360 IS fully compatible with the PZ-1p’s body-controlled flash exposure compensation. But as a result of moving flash compensation to the FGZ360 flash and out of the body, the MZ-S on-camera flash now has no exposure compensation adjustment, which is bad. The best use for pop-up flashes is daylight fill a stop or so under. The FGZ360 also has an auto sensor in addition to TTL, just like the famed Pentax AF280T flash, the only other Pentax flash to provide such wide exposure options. Paint with flash made easy. If only the FGZ360 rotated in addition to tilt, it would be a total replacement for the 280T. <\/p>\n
The large PZ-1p LCD gives you full info all the time, and is especially more informative about the 15 to 17 custom Pentax Functions that can be set to your preference. With the MZ-S, you have to memorize what the numerical settings mean; the PZ-1p LCD shows you.<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.blackestknight.com\/photography\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/Pentax-Pz1p-Pentax-Functions.jpg\")
Functions<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n[\/nk_awb]
\n<\/p>\n
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1 How to set the ISO Manually.<\/span><\/h3>\nIf you do not have DX coded film (ie you roll your own film):<\/span><\/p>\na)Slide the power switch forward to the [on] position.<\/span><\/p>\nb)Turn the Mode dial (notched wheel on the left of the camera) so that the mode is set to ISO<\/span><\/p>\nc) While pressing the mode set button the ISO value appears at the top right hand of the LCD screen. Now by turning the [TV] dial (a notched wheel located above the shutter release button) set the camera to the desired ISO.<\/span><\/p>\n2 How to set the function to Manual mode:<\/span><\/h3>\na) Turn the Mode dial so that the mode set dial points to [Mode].<\/span><\/p>\nb) While pressing the mode set button, turn the [TV] direct dial (a notched wheel located above the shutter release button) until [Hy M] appears on the LCD Screen. If the [Hy M] does not appear on the LCD screen, chances are you have set the main switch to [USER] rather than to [ON] position.<\/span><\/p>\nc) Your camera is now set to the Hyper Manual Mode, i.e. you can set the shutter speed and the aperture opening to whatever value you desire. The Aperture opening value appears besides letters [Av] and the exposure time (Time Value) appears beside letters [Tv].<\/span><\/p>\n3 How to change the aperture Manually:<\/span><\/h3>\na)Set the camera mode to Manual [Hy M] (see step 2)<\/span><\/p>\nb)By rotating the aperture ring on the lens (the ring with numbers such as 4, 5.6, 8, 11 etc) the f-number will appear on the bottom right hand side of your LCD screen. Please note that at times especially when you are using long zoom lenses, due to the lens extension the f-number engraved on the ring may not match the f-number that is displayed on the LCD screen or the viewfinder. The LCD dial always indicates the correct f-stop. <\/span><\/p>\n4 How to change the Exposure Time (shutter speed) Manually:<\/span><\/h3>\na)Set the camera mode to Manual [Hy M] (see step 2). If the shutter speed does not appear on the LCD screen, press the shutter release button partially to activate the LCD screen.<\/span><\/div>\nb) By rotating the Time value [Tv] direct dial (a notched wheel located above the shutter release button) the shutter speed (exposure time) can be changed. Sample times are 30″ to 1″ then .7, 1\/2, 1\/3, 1\/4, 1\/6, 1\/8, 1\/10, 1\/15, 1\/20, 1\/30, 1\/45, 1\/60, 1\/90, 1\/125, 1\/180, 1\/250, 1\/350, 1\/500, 1\/750, 1\/1000, 1\/1500, 1\/2000, 1\/3000, 1\/4000, 1\/6000, and 1\/8000.<\/span><\/div>\n5 How to set the exposure function to SPOT:<\/span><\/h3>\na) Slide the main switch forward to the [ON] position.<\/span><\/p>\nb) Set the camera to Manual [Hy M] (see step 2)<\/span><\/p>\nc) Press and hold down the spot button on the back of the camera (a small dot in the middle of a rectangle) while rotating the [Tv] dial (a notched wheel located above the shutter release button) when the spotmetering symbol appears at the bottom right hand side of the external LCD screen, your camera’s meter is set to [SPOT]<\/span><\/p>\n6 How to find the normal exposure of a simple subject:<\/span><\/h3>\na) Set the exposure mode to Manual [Hy M] by following the directions in step 2.<\/span><\/p>\nb) Choose a starting shutter speed (exposure time) if you are not sure of your shutter speed setting, particularly for outside shots set it to a number close to the ISO of the film being used. For example if your film’s ISO is 100 set it to 1\/125 sec. This can be done by following the directions in step 4. Now turn your metering to [SPOT]. This can be done by following the directions in step 5.<\/span><\/p>\nc) Point the spotmetering circle located at the center of the viewfinder at the desired simple tone and turn the aperture ring on the lens to find its normal exposure. This is when the pointer on the vertical scale of your viewfinder is positioned exactly in the middle of [+] and [-] signs. Put a roll of 100 ISO slide film in your Pentax PZ-1P (pz1p) camera and choose an outdoor subject. Activate the spotmetering option on your camera and set your camera\u2019s mode to manual and to the shutter sped to 1\/125 sec. To avoid confusion, in this book we will increase and decrease the exposure by opening-up and closing-down the aperture. The shutter speed will remain fixed.<\/span><\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.blackestknight.com\/photography\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/fedex.jpg\")
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.blackestknight.com\/photography\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/meter.jpg\")
<\/span><\/p>\n\n- Observe your subject and break it down into its simple subject (single tone) components. Choose a Reference Tone. A Reference Tone is usually chosen from the most important part of the subject. Once you have selected the Reference Tone, point your spotmeter at this tone and find its normal exposure. If your subject does not have a distinct single tone and you are using slide film, pick out a tone that is medium gray or brighter. If you are using a negative film, pick out a tone that is medium gray or darker.<\/span><\/li>\n
- Let\u2019s assume the “normal exposure” indicated by your camera for this Reference Tone is 125@f-8 (i.e., 1\/125 sec. at an aperture setting of 8). <\/span><\/li>\n
- As you may know know, the spotmeter\u2019s “normal exposure” from any simple (single toned) surface will always provide the photographer with an 18% gray image tone. <\/span><\/li>\n
- The image tone that your normal exposure provides is independent of the original tone of your subject. <\/span><\/li>\n
- In spotmetering, converting the “normal exposure” to the “correct exposure” is what a photographer must do. In other words, the “normal exposure” readings of the spotmeter must be interpreted by the photographer to determine the subject\u2019s”correct exposure.” The principle behind this simplified technique is that if one tone of a complex subject is exposed correctly, the rest of the tones follow and will also be correctly exposed . Now decide which one of the following tones would most closely matches your Reference Tone: Black, Dark Gray, Medium Gray, Light Gray or White. With this simplified technique you must choose one of these five tones. Once you have decided which one of these five tones best matches your Reference Tone, then adjust your camera settings accordingly:<\/span><\/li>\n
- If you chose Black, you need to decrease the “normal exposure” setting by two stops. Closing- down the aperture by two stops converts the 18% gray image tone to Black. The correct exposure is now 125@f-16.<\/span><\/li>\n
- If you chose Dark Gray, you need to decrease the “normal exposure” setting by one stop. Closing- down the aperture by one stop converts the 18% gray image tone to Dark gray. The correct exposure is now of 125@f-11.<\/span><\/li>\n
- If you chose Medium Gray, leave the aperture and shutter speed as they are since the meter is already creating an 18% gray (Medium Gray) image tone, i.e., the tone of the image matches the approximate tone of the Reference Tone. Also remember that when metering from a medium gray surface, the “normal exposure” and “correct exposure” settings are approximately the same.<\/span><\/li>\n
- If you chose Light Gray, you need to increase the “normal exposure” setting by one stop. Opening-up the aperture by one stop converts the 18% gray image tone to Light Gray. This results in a correct exposure of 125@f-5.6.<\/span><\/li>\n
- If you chose White, you need to increase the “normal exposure” setting by two stops. Opening-up the aperture by two stops converts the 18% gray image tone to White. The correct exposure is now 125@f-4. [\/nk_awb]<\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
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PZ-1-Z-1-27030-27031-27032-Service-Manual<\/a><\/span><\/p>\nPZ-1P, Z-1P (27121, 27123, 27126) Parts List<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n
Overview<\/a> This camera is discontinued, but probably still can be found in some shops or as a second hand. The Pentax PZ-1p is a good alternative for those wishing a high featured camera without spending a lot of money. One of Pentax’s high-end autofocus 35mm SLR, the PZ-1p has all of the required features demanded by professional photographers. It is capable of a shutter speed of 1\/8000 sec with 1\/250 sec flash sync. The motor allows up to 4 frames per second for continuous shooting. Now this camera is replaced by new Pentax MZ-S.<\/p>\n 24) TV direct dial<\/p>\n 25) AV direct dial<\/p>\n 26) motor drive mode<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n <\/p>\n As with others in its class, the camera comes with standard aperture and shutter priority. The PZ-1p uses a basic, but adequate eight segment multi-pattern metering system which handled most of our shooting situations with flying colors, comparable in performance to autofocus 35mm SLRs priced at over $1500. The metering system is perfect and never fails, even under difficult lightning conditions. <\/p>\n Key functions are programmable and the camera can be taught to know your shooting habits in different situations. Customizing the camera functions was the easiest of any autofocus 35mm SLR. <\/p>\n The powerful built-in flash can also be set to fire at varying strengths to get the correct exposure. Doing so, in fact, led to three images with quite different feels, all of which were “usable”. For serious photographers, we recommend a dedicated flash unit, such as the Pentax AF500FTZ. For basic sports photography, the predictive autofocus was as good as any found on $1500 cameras. Predictive autofocus kicks in automatically in AF Servo mode when it detects the subject moving. <\/p>\n The PZ-1p has its dials placed in comfortable positions, and reachable by different sized hands. The body has a “futuristic” look to it, with buttons and dials located discreetly, but within easy reach. Pentax does not have the range of lenses of some other companies, but Pentax’s lenses are top notch and comes in focal lengths for every picture taking situation. <\/p>\n I have been using SLR’s from different manufactors for around 10 years and know the technical side of photography inside-out, but I had to spend an hour with the manual to get the hang of this camera. The whole point is that when making pictures you just keep looking through the viewfinder and adjust f-stop and shutter speed with two dials, while the finder shows you the information you need. You very seldom have to remove the eye from the finder for the purpose of adjusting something when shooting. <\/p>\n This SLR has an unusual user interface<\/b> <\/p>\n The Z-1p has something called “hyper-manual” and “hyper program”<\/b>. In both modes you adjust shutter speed with one dial and f-stops with another. The finder shows the selected values in “hyper manual” also an over\/under exposure scale in 1\/3 stops. A small button picks a shutter\/f-stop combination that satisfies the meter reading, this is really nice when something unexpected happens. <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n \u00b4 In hyper program you adjust the same way but when you adjust f-stop the camera adjusts shutter speed just like traditional aperture priority, when you adjust shutter speed the camera adjusts f-stop like in shutter priority, when the light changes the camera adjusts one or both values to adapt just like a traditional program mode. <\/p>\n These two modes are the only ones beside “B” that I have been using. There’s traditional aperture priority, shutter priority and program modes, but the two hyper modes are so much more convenient. No more need to switch between aperture, shutter priority, manual and program mode in the middle of shooting. <\/p>\n When shooting landscapes and the like with the camera mounted on a tripod you suddenly figures out why Pentax choose to put a large lcd on top of the prism house. It holds information such as f-stop, shutter speed, amount of over\/under exposure with the current setting shown in 1\/3 f-stops, metering mode, indicators for bracketing, exposure compensating, mirror lock-up, spot\/center\/matrix and a handful of other indicators however it’s big enough to be useful from up to a meter away. <\/p>\n Pros<\/b><\/p>\n This camera comes with shutter speeds from 30s-1\/8000s, synchs up to 1\/250s, can do fill flash magic automatically, and has auto bracketing settable in 1\/3 or 1\/2 steps. Bracketing also works with flash and fill flash. <\/p>\n Camera has unusual Hyper Modes with dual dial knobs – one for aperture, second for shutter time. <\/p>\n There’s mirror lockup, when the camera flips up the mirror, stops down the lens and then wait 2 seconds before making the exposure. The focusing screen can be changed by the user. <\/p>\n There’s a built in flash with a guidenumber of 14 that spreads enough for a 28 mm lens. An on camera flash isn’t of course the most usefull thing around, but it can save the day when caught without a real flash, and it can of course be used to sync off camera flashes with slaves. The Pentax 500 FTZ flash has a built in slave, so this is a very usefull feature. <\/p>\n What would improve this camera<\/b> <\/p>\n I miss being able to set longer exposures than 30 s. without resorting to B-mode and cable remote. It would be trivial from a programmer\/ee point of view to let the uset dial in arbitrarily long exposure times by turning one of the dials and seing the exposure time shown in the finder or the display. But I think more like 30s long exposure time is very rare, I think it can be found only in medium format cameras. <\/p>\n Pentax would not hear any complaints from me if they forgot about the patetic panorama function. It’s just two pieces of metal that blocks light to the top and bottom of the film during exposure. <\/p>\n An optional method for keeping the battery in a shirt pocket when shooting in cold weather would be nice. It was available on the earlier top of the line models, but has been dropped for the Z-1p? models. An option that let’s one use standard AA batteries instead of the photo specific 2CR5 lithium battery, could save the day in less industrialized countries when the bag with the spare batteries get’s stolen and you have to resupply locally. <\/p>\n An updated AF with more focus spots etc. would be nice. But, as I must say, the system with selectable points of focus is not very usable – like those in Nikon F80 or Canon EOS 300, because usually you haven\u00b4t got the time to choose the right focus point, because you must watch composition and zoom. No time is left for this. (this knowledge comes from my practice) Other think is when focusing points are selected automatically by camera itself. <\/p>\n For those needing a professional 35mm SLR camera, but lacking a professional budget, the Pentax PZ-1p is a fine choice. When I was buying it, it was camera with the best features\/price ratio. I\u00b4m using this camera for several years, now using mostly velvia slide film and I\u00b4m totally satisfied. I would not change it! You can see my pictures, which proves qualities of this camera.<\/p>\n I think that the Pentax SMC, Super Multi-Coated lenses are excellent. It is amazing how badly you have to do to have lens flare show up. The optical quality of Pentax lenses is also excellent. You can also use other brans making lenses for Pentax. My favourite is Tokina, especially new Tokina 28-70\/f2.8 for very good price and with perfect optical\/build quality. <\/p>\n PZ-1p versus MZ-S<\/b> <\/p>\n New MZ-S is almost twice as expensive as the PZ-1p. Ironically, the different functionality of the MZ-S makes me appreciate more than ever the ease of use and functionality of the PZ-1p. The hyper modes of the PZ-1p are simply beautiful to work with, and they are not set-up quite the same on the MZ-S. The two cameras have almost identical functionality, but the MZ-S has gone a step backwards in requiring aperture priority changes to be made with the aperture ring only, whereas on the PZ-1p such changes can be made by thumbwheel or, of course, by the aperture ring. Two-second mirror lock-up is much faster to set on the PZ-1p, as are all of the other Pentax Functions, owing to the fact that on the PZ-1p you depress a button and rotate a wheel through the functions, while on the MZ-S you must rotate a wheel through the exposure bracketing area and two separate click stops to get to the same function-ready-to-set start point. This was not an improvement over the PZ-1p, by any means. The MZ-S does not have 3-frame timer release, which I find very useful. Any time I want to be in the frame and use the timer on a tripod, I’m usually with a group of people. Three frames at once lets me get a print for myself and two others for the people with me, without having to go back to the tripod twice. The MZ-S is lighter and feels more solid in-hand. The shutter on the MZ-S is much quieter, and I suspect has far less vibration than the shutter on a PZ-1p. For build quality, the MZ-S cannot be faulted in any way. <\/p>\n It can be faulted for the 2.5 frames per second motor drive versus the PZ-1P’s 4.5 fps. It’s probably an issue related to the size of the motor in the smaller MZ-s body, but 4.5 fps is far more useful if you really need a timed sequence of something. <\/p>\n For those of you with Power Zoom lenses, you probably already know that the MZ-S does not incorporate full power zoom functionality. Most notably, the automatic lens-retract-to-shortest-size feature retracts the zoom extension to shortest length, BUT it does NOT simultaneously autofocus to infinity, which would shorten the lens even more. The PZ-1p does both. This “shortening of the lens” function helps stuff the camera back in the bag more quickly. This might seem inconsequential, but once I had the feature, I came to like it. With the newer Pentax zooms, especially those with internal focus, it’s not an issue. <\/p>\n The FGZ360 flash that came out for the MZ-S is a VERY nice unit, and the MZ-S has extremely good interface with it. It give brilliant results, utilizing a pre-flash feature that effectively custom-sets the actual TTL flash output. The MZ-S body leaves the older FTZ 500 and 330 flashes for the PZ-1p out in the cold in terms of flash exposure compensation (the function is in the FGZ360 flash, not in the body), but the FGZ360 IS fully compatible with the PZ-1p’s body-controlled flash exposure compensation. But as a result of moving flash compensation to the FGZ360 flash and out of the body, the MZ-S on-camera flash now has no exposure compensation adjustment, which is bad. The best use for pop-up flashes is daylight fill a stop or so under. The FGZ360 also has an auto sensor in addition to TTL, just like the famed Pentax AF280T flash, the only other Pentax flash to provide such wide exposure options. Paint with flash made easy. If only the FGZ360 rotated in addition to tilt, it would be a total replacement for the 280T. <\/p>\n The large PZ-1p LCD gives you full info all the time, and is especially more informative about the 15 to 17 custom Pentax Functions that can be set to your preference. With the MZ-S, you have to memorize what the numerical settings mean; the PZ-1p LCD shows you.<\/p>\n [\/nk_awb] [nk_awb awb_type=”color” awb_color=”rgba(255,255,255,0.98)”]<\/p>\n If you do not have DX coded film (ie you roll your own film):<\/span><\/p>\n a)Slide the power switch forward to the [on] position.<\/span><\/p>\n b)Turn the Mode dial (notched wheel on the left of the camera) so that the mode is set to ISO<\/span><\/p>\n c) While pressing the mode set button the ISO value appears at the top right hand of the LCD screen. Now by turning the [TV] dial (a notched wheel located above the shutter release button) set the camera to the desired ISO.<\/span><\/p>\n a) Turn the Mode dial so that the mode set dial points to [Mode].<\/span><\/p>\n b) While pressing the mode set button, turn the [TV] direct dial (a notched wheel located above the shutter release button) until [Hy M] appears on the LCD Screen. If the [Hy M] does not appear on the LCD screen, chances are you have set the main switch to [USER] rather than to [ON] position.<\/span><\/p>\n c) Your camera is now set to the Hyper Manual Mode, i.e. you can set the shutter speed and the aperture opening to whatever value you desire. The Aperture opening value appears besides letters [Av] and the exposure time (Time Value) appears beside letters [Tv].<\/span><\/p>\n a)Set the camera mode to Manual [Hy M] (see step 2)<\/span><\/p>\n b)By rotating the aperture ring on the lens (the ring with numbers such as 4, 5.6, 8, 11 etc) the f-number will appear on the bottom right hand side of your LCD screen. Please note that at times especially when you are using long zoom lenses, due to the lens extension the f-number engraved on the ring may not match the f-number that is displayed on the LCD screen or the viewfinder. The LCD dial always indicates the correct f-stop. <\/span><\/p>\n a) Slide the main switch forward to the [ON] position.<\/span><\/p>\n b) Set the camera to Manual [Hy M] (see step 2)<\/span><\/p>\n c) Press and hold down the spot button on the back of the camera (a small dot in the middle of a rectangle) while rotating the [Tv] dial (a notched wheel located above the shutter release button) when the spotmetering symbol appears at the bottom right hand side of the external LCD screen, your camera’s meter is set to [SPOT]<\/span><\/p>\n a) Set the exposure mode to Manual [Hy M] by following the directions in step 2.<\/span><\/p>\n b) Choose a starting shutter speed (exposure time) if you are not sure of your shutter speed setting, particularly for outside shots set it to a number close to the ISO of the film being used. For example if your film’s ISO is 100 set it to 1\/125 sec. This can be done by following the directions in step 4. Now turn your metering to [SPOT]. This can be done by following the directions in step 5.<\/span><\/p>\n c) Point the spotmetering circle located at the center of the viewfinder at the desired simple tone and turn the aperture ring on the lens to find its normal exposure. This is when the pointer on the vertical scale of your viewfinder is positioned exactly in the middle of [+] and [-] signs. Put a roll of 100 ISO slide film in your Pentax PZ-1P (pz1p) camera and choose an outdoor subject. Activate the spotmetering option on your camera and set your camera\u2019s mode to manual and to the shutter sped to 1\/125 sec. To avoid confusion, in this book we will increase and decrease the exposure by opening-up and closing-down the aperture. The shutter speed will remain fixed.<\/span><\/p>\n <\/p>\n [nk_awb awb_type=”color” awb_color=”rgba(255,255,255,0.98)”]<\/p>\n PZ-1-Z-1-27030-27031-27032-Service-Manual<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n PZ-1P, Z-1P (27121, 27123, 27126) Parts List<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n
\nFeatures<\/a>
\nOperation<\/a>
\nPros and Cons<\/a>
\nConclusion<\/a><\/p>\nOverview<\/h2>\n
Features<\/h2>\n
\n\n
\n Camera Type:<\/b><\/td>\n TTL auto focus, auto exposure multi-mode 35mm SLR with built-in Retractable TTL Auto Flash (RTF).<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Focusing system:<\/b><\/td>\n Type: TTL phase-matching system (with SAFOX II in AF sensor unit).
\nUsable illumination range: EV-1 ~ EV18 (at ISO 100\/m with 50mm f\/1.4 lens).Modes:(1) AF-Single (with focus-lock function)(2) AF-Servo (with Predictive AF mode)(3) manual focus (selectable with switch on camera body)AF spotbeam (with RTF in pop-up position):automatic emission under low illumination (1m ~ 6m).<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n\n Lens Mount:<\/b><\/td>\n Pentax KAF2 bayonet mount. Compatible with KAF, KA and K mounts.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Usable lenses:<\/b><\/td>\n Pentax KAF2, KAF, KA a K bayonet mount lenses. With M42 adaptor can be mounted all M42 lenses (for example those from Praktica). Even, I have bought Pentacon Six Lens to Pentax Bayonet K adaptor to use my great Carl Zeiss Jena Sonar 300\/f4 lens.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Viewfinder:<\/b><\/td>\n Pentaprism
\nInterchangeable Natural-Bright-Matte focusing screen (panorama*-spot-matte type as standard)Magnification: 0.8X (with 50mm f\/1.4 lens at infinity)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n\n Viewfinder coverage<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n covers 92% of real picture vertical \/ horizontal<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Viewfinder magnification:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n 0.8X (with 50mm f\/1.4 lens at infinity).<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Viewfinder Info:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n Multi-data LCD type with illuminator
\n1) in-focus 2) shutter speed 3) aperture 4) accessory flash emission 5) RTF emission 6) flash emission compensation 7) low-illumination warning 8) non-applicable lens warning 9) exposure compensation scale 10) exposure compensation 11) memory lock 12) metering system (multi-pattern, spot, center-weighted) 13) panorama mode <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n\n External LCD Panel Indication: <\/b><\/b><\/td>\n multi-data LCD type with EL (Electro-Luminescence) illuminator.
\n1) exposure mode (Hyper Program, Programmed AE, Aperture-Priority AE, Shutter-Priority AE, Hyper Manual and Manual Bulb2) film loading, film advance\/rewind and loading error warning3) Image-Size Tracking4) Zoom Clip5) Zoom Effect6) shutter speed7) aperture8) ISO film speed9) exposure compensation10) exposure compensation value11) exposure frame number12) low-battery warning13) RTF recharge14) low-illumination warning15) non-applicable lens warning16) metering mode (multi-segment, spot, center-weighted)17) Pentax Functions18) self-timer19) multiple exposure20) trailing-shutter-curtain sync21) pre-flash emission (red-eye reduction)22) flash emission compensation23) auto-bracketing<\/p>\n\n Shutter:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n Electronically controlled vertical-run focal-plane shutter<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Film Transport:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n Quick loading mechanism with automatic film advance to first frame
\nAdvance\/rewind: automatic. (Mid-roll rewind possible.)Advance modes: single-frame and consecutive (approx. 4 frames\/sec.)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n\n Exposure modes:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n (1) Hyper Program
\n(2) Programmed AE(3) Aperture-Priority AE(4) Shutter-Priority AE(5) Hyper Manual(6) Manual Bulb(7) TTL Program Auto Flash, Automatic exposure compensation provided with multi-pattern metering<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n\n Exposure compensation:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n +4EV. (1\/3EV or 1\/2EV increment selectable with Pentax Function.)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Metering system:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n (1) TTL open-aperture eight-segment multi-pattern metering (coupled with lens and AF information)
\n(2) spot metering(3) center-weighted metering<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n\n Metering work range:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n EV0 ~ EV20 (at ISO 100\/m with 50mm f\/1.4 lens)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Shutter speeds:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n (1) auto: 1\/8000 sec. ~ 30 sec. stepless
\n(2) manual: 1\/8000 sec. ~ 30 sec. plus bulb(3) flash sync: 1\/250 sec. (slow-shutter-speed sync: 250 sec. ~ 30 sec. plus bulb)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n\n Auto bracketing: <\/b><\/b><\/td>\n 3 frames in order of proper\/under\/ over exposures within range of +4EV (1\/3EV or 1\/2EV increment selectable)
\nCombination use with exposure compensation possible.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n\n Multiple Exposure:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n 2~9 frames adjustable<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Mirror Lockup:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n Yes -automatic with 2seconds shutter timer<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Built-in Retractable TTL Flash:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n Guide number: 14 (at ISO 100\/m)
\nAngle of coverage: 28mm wide-angle lens maximum Synchronization: with RTF via hotshoe Features:(1) Emission adjustable in daylight sync and slow-shutter-speed sync (2) flash bracketing(3) flash emission compensation{4) trailing-shutter-curtain sync(5) pre-flash emission (red-eye reduction)(6) AF spotbeam projector built in<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n\n Minimal Flash Synchronization:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n Sync speeds: 1\/250 sec. set automatically with RTF or dedicated flash unit upon recharge completion<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Depth Of Field preview:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n yes<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Custom Functions:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n 15 custom-programmable functions<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Motorspeed:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n approximately 4fps<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Settings ISO of Films:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n Automatic with DX-coded film (ISO25 ~ ISO1000)
\nManual setting available (ISO6 ~ ISO6400 in 1\/3EV steps)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n\n Self timer:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n Electronically controlled type with 2-second with Mirror Lockup<\/b> or 12-second delay
\nCancellation possible<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n\n Remote control:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n Electric Cable Switch F, easy to build yourself, please read my article<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Battery:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n One 6V lithium battery (2CR5 type)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Weight:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n 650g (22.9 oz.) without lens and battery<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Dimensions:<\/b><\/b><\/td>\n 152.0mm(W) x 95.5mm(H) x 74.0mm(D) (6.0″ x 3.8″ x 2.9″)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n Operation<\/h2>\n
Pros and Cons<\/h2>\n
Conclusion<\/h2>\n
\n<\/p>\n1 How to set the ISO Manually.<\/span><\/h3>\n
2 How to set the function to Manual mode:<\/span><\/h3>\n
3 How to change the aperture Manually:<\/span><\/h3>\n
4 How to change the Exposure Time (shutter speed) Manually:<\/span><\/h3>\n
5 How to set the exposure function to SPOT:<\/span><\/h3>\n
6 How to find the normal exposure of a simple subject:<\/span><\/h3>\n
<\/span><\/p>\n\n